As the cooler weather starts, lots of people take the opportunity to tackle pigmentation. To treat pigmentation, it is important to have a good understanding of the underlying causes...of which there are many
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Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
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common causes on the face include acne, rashes, burns and sometimes even side effects of previous treatments such as chemical peels
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Melasma
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hormonal pigmentation 15 x more common in females, triggered by estrogen (pregnancy, OCP, HRT) and UV light
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Solar damage
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Sun exposure can cause regular distribution of melanin (tanning) and irregular pigment distribution - solar lentigo, pigmented skin cancers
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Freckling - even spotty pigmentation produced by exposure to the sun
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Seborrheic keratosis
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Darkened ‘age appts’ or barnacles
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Genetic pigmentation - related to ethnicity and Fitzpatrick skin type (1 - 6)
Once the type of pigmentation and your skin type have been identified, a treatment plan targeting these causes can be formulated.
Prevention
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sun protective behaviours and clothing
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SPF - suncream
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treating underlying triggers eg. control acne, optimise eczema management, stop hormonal preparations and any other contributing medication if possible
Skin Care
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incorporate anti-oxidants and lightening agents (or tyrosinase inhibitors) into your skin care regime
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minimise harsh exfoliants and irritants
Treatments
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prescription topical and oral medication
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chemical peels - superficial - medium depth
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lasers and lights
What are some key ingredients in skin care that you can incorporate prior to seeking treatment?
Broad spectrum SPF
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look for UVA and UVB protection
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SPF 30 or higher
Tyrosinase inhibitors - Tyrosinase is an enzyme in melanocytes (pigment cells) that converts Tyrosine --> Melanin (pigment); by inhibiting it, you can decrease the production of new pigment and fade old pigment
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Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
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Kojic acid
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Arbutin
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Liquorice extract
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Vitamin C
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Vitamin A
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Ferulic Acid
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Resorcinol
You don't need all of these in your skin care regime, but a product with a select few will go a long way in helping to minimise pigmentation. Essentially laying the ground work and preparing your skin for the introduction of any physical treatments or prescription products.